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[HemiEd]

So I got sick and tired of header gasket leaks.
I had to get after the header bolts almost every time I drove my Jeep around, and if I missed tightening them one time it would blow out the gasket in that spot.
So I got some Stage 8 header bolts.

[url=http://www.stage8.com/]http://www.stage8.com/[/url]

Thing is, nothing ever just snaps into place with this Jeep.
What I thought was going to be a 2-hour job changing header gaskets and installing new bolts turned into an all day ordeal.
Probably the worst part was using a body hammer to dimple the header tube and ended up popping a small hole in it, but at least I got to play with my welder.

Hope your bolts solve the problem, and I understand what a project that can be. Got the T Shirt!

I remember having those problems, but since I went with TTI headers, it is no longer an issue. At first I thought it was due to the premium gasket they included, but I have since replaced them due to the changes, but still no issues.
I am guessing it is the extremely thick flanges they use.

[Radar Chief]

Hope your bolts solve the problem, and I understand what a project that can be. Got the T Shirt!

I remember having those problems, but since I went with TTI headers, it is no longer an issue. At first I thought it was due to the premium gasket they included, but I have since replaced them due to the changes, but still no issues.
I am guessing it is the extremely thick flanges they use.

Yea, Hooker uses what looks like about ¼” steel, looks fairly mild also, then laser cuts a pattern for the flange and welds tubes to it.  I’m assuming this is all robot welding too.

[Radar Chief]

Oh, BTW, broken valve spring.
Loaded up my gear, dog and took the Jeep fishing Friday and it ran great all night.
Then Saturday morning I started to take MiniRadar to meet with Mrs. Radar for some breakfast, she was out garage sale-ing, and just out of the blue it started missing on one cylinder.  It would idle like it was fine but wouldn’t accept throttle under a load.
I had an idea what it was so I wasn’t surprised when I went looking and found it.   

[HemiEd]

Oh, BTW, broken valve spring.
Loaded up my gear, dog and took the Jeep fishing Friday and it ran great all night.
Then Saturday morning I started to take MiniRadar to meet with Mrs. Radar for some breakfast, she was out garage sale-ing, and just out of the blue it started missing on one cylinder.  It would idle like it was fine but wouldn’t accept throttle under a load.
I had an idea what it was so I wasn’t surprised when I went looking and found it.

Damn Dude, you have really had some valve train issues with that 327. I hope it is over for you soon, it has been a real test.

There is always the Mopar option.  The 4 inch stroker cranks make 408 in a  360 block. They have a reputation of being torque monsters.

[Radar Chief]

Well, it might have been just a little bit driver induced.
There was a somewhat of a loose nut behind the wheel on the way home from fishing.
But it was fun and it was running great, loving the cooler air.

[HemiEd]

Well, it might have been just a little bit driver induced.
There was a somewhat of a loose nut behind the wheel on the way home from fishing.
But it was fun and it was running great, loving the cooler air.

Sounds like fun!

[Radar Chief]

It was.
I am going to take this opportunity to double check my valve train though.  I’ve ordered a valve spring height micrometer to measure stack height. 
Up until now what I’ve done is measure the various parts I could with vernier calipers and add up my measurements for an approximate stack height.  The micrometer I’ve ordered will take the guesswork out of it and I want to make sure I’m not binding valve springs at full lift.

[Radar Chief]

Good thing I checked, its bordering on coil bind at max lift.
I'm finding that the trick "recessed for lash caps" valve locks I bought aren't actually cut shorter on top, they have the groved moved up on the lock meaning that they move the spring retainer down on the valve stem taking away from stack height.  It's about an .055" difference, which put stack height at 1.665" for springs should have a 1.750" SH.  That reduces the available lift by almost .090", from .630" to .540" and my cam has .535"/.550" lift.
I tried the same spring retainer with a set of standard locks I have sitting around and get a stack height of 1.725", still not the height it should have but that at least gets me out of the coil bind area.
Hope that makes some sense, anyway.   

[HemiEd]

does to me, that would also facilitate wiping a lobe, if you still had the flat tappets in.

[Radar Chief]

I’m thinking that’s what actually took out my last flat tappet cam.
That’s probably what I get for believing the manufacturer when they claim “stack height neutral”.  I should have noticed it before, set one of the recessed locks next to a standard one and the difference is obvious.

[HemiEd]

Yeah, something has to give when you have it that close. When you approach "float" is when it would have really been at it's worst.

When I was drag racing, I took the poor boy approach on most of my stuff, with no choice.
Found a nice set of light used used pistons, and the valve reliefs did not match my heads, since they had been milled .130.
It restricted the size of cam I could run, or it would have gotten real ugly.
IIRC, I had less than .090 with the .557 cam, and later tried a .590 cam for a while.
It was one reason my MPH was on the short end for my ET, well that and the 5:38 gear.

Got by with it though, just needed to keep fresh springs in it.